DSC_1855
Originally uploaded by migratorynature.
Saturday, March 31, 2007
Wednesday, March 28, 2007
TRAVIS TURNS 28!
For Travis' birthday we went for lunch at a fancy restaurant inside the Taj Hotel. We drank Watermelon Coolers and Orange Surprises. We ate lamb, curries, chutneys, ice cream, and "chocolate" stix (being a chocolate officionado, I didn't have the heart to tell them their chocolate wasn't Real Deal, but the rest of the food was good). They brought out a cake and I sang Happy Birthday. Then we picked up a hand-tailored shirt that Travis had made as a birthday present to himself. Afterward we hired a boat to take us out for a sunset cruise. I peeled and fed Travis tropical fruits and he felt like royalty. A wonderful end to Travis' special day.
Tuesday, March 27, 2007
Monday, March 26, 2007
Thursday, March 22, 2007
TREKKING IN THE RAINFOREST JUNGLE
Hello from the deep south... of India that is... a muggy place with beaches, mountains, rain forests, tribal communities, a democratically elected communist government, and a well-boasted 100% literacy rate among it's citizens. You haven't guessed the place yet? Well its tropical Kerala, located at the southern most tip of India. Kerala is known as the perfect place to watch the Arabian Sea collide with the Bay of Bengal.
We've been spending our time in homestays, mostly located in hill stations at the base of the mountains, just West of Tamil Nadu (check out the map link to the right). One of our most adventurous experiences was a trek into the Periyer Wildlife Reserve. Among many species of wild plants and animals we saw, these were especially breathtaking: sandbar dear, horned bills, trinket snakes, black languor monkeys, giant squirrels, wild boar, egrets, stork, bison, and Asian elephants (mama and baby!). We were told it was rare to see so many animals in one day of trekking. I think all the animals caught whiff of our Seattle-scent and recognized the pro-animal rights vibe, being from the great Pacific Northwest and all. Yep, and the animals wanted us to give a shout out to all you great folks keepin it live at the Salish Sea.
Maybe the animals weren't ALL so friendly: last year a tourist here was eaten by a sloth bear because she had her two children with her and couldn't run away fast enough. Now there are no children allowed in the jungle... it impedes ones ability to run away from the predators. Strapped up with our best running shoes, we first crossed a bamboo bridge covered with millions of rhana tegrina frogs. These black hoppers were piling on top of each other, trying to stay wet in the scorching heat and fast-drying marsh. Hearing the sound of all of them squishing together was reminiscent of stirring a hot casserole. Crossing the frog bridge was like walking on a moving carpet. Not stepping on frogs was impossible. Frogs not stepping on us was impossible. Later that afternoon, on our way back from trekking, the frog bridge had turned into a frog bake; and the egrets were happily picking off the crispy critters for lunch.
Other than the frog bridge, much of our trek involved wading through knee high yellow grasses, trying to avoid colossal piles of elephant dung. At one point, we realised we had walked right in between the scent trail of a male elephant and two females with a baby. We quickly cut across the savanna in time to see the two females and baby charge into the forest, chirping high tones as a warning not to follow them. At another point in our trek, deeper into the jungle, we found tiger paw prints in the dirt, claw marks scratching 10 feet up a tree, dear bones strewn about, and the rotting smell of flesh having been satisfactorily eaten and left in the sun for scavengers. Needless to say we kept moving!
That evening we boarded an old-school riverboat which took us out to watch the wild animals gather at the watering hole for a cool drink. The sun was setting by this time and Travis had taken well to his persona as National Geographic Wildlife Photographer: comparing lens sizes and shooting strategies with other photographers, competing for the best shots and showing off his talents to the locals. He got some wonderful pics that we will post here as soon as we get out of the mountains to a faster than snot-paced internet connection.
In celebration of our adventure, we ended our day with Ayurvedic massages (1hr.=$10) before gorging on a dinner of mutton curry and vegetable biriyani. It is our unanimous vote that south Indian food is far superior to north Indian food (as evidenced by our appetites). They use fresh coconut and hand picked spices in their dishes here... amazingly delicious. I am collecting recipes for when we get home. Who wants to sample the goodness first??
We've been spending our time in homestays, mostly located in hill stations at the base of the mountains, just West of Tamil Nadu (check out the map link to the right). One of our most adventurous experiences was a trek into the Periyer Wildlife Reserve. Among many species of wild plants and animals we saw, these were especially breathtaking: sandbar dear, horned bills, trinket snakes, black languor monkeys, giant squirrels, wild boar, egrets, stork, bison, and Asian elephants (mama and baby!). We were told it was rare to see so many animals in one day of trekking. I think all the animals caught whiff of our Seattle-scent and recognized the pro-animal rights vibe, being from the great Pacific Northwest and all. Yep, and the animals wanted us to give a shout out to all you great folks keepin it live at the Salish Sea.
Maybe the animals weren't ALL so friendly: last year a tourist here was eaten by a sloth bear because she had her two children with her and couldn't run away fast enough. Now there are no children allowed in the jungle... it impedes ones ability to run away from the predators. Strapped up with our best running shoes, we first crossed a bamboo bridge covered with millions of rhana tegrina frogs. These black hoppers were piling on top of each other, trying to stay wet in the scorching heat and fast-drying marsh. Hearing the sound of all of them squishing together was reminiscent of stirring a hot casserole. Crossing the frog bridge was like walking on a moving carpet. Not stepping on frogs was impossible. Frogs not stepping on us was impossible. Later that afternoon, on our way back from trekking, the frog bridge had turned into a frog bake; and the egrets were happily picking off the crispy critters for lunch.
Other than the frog bridge, much of our trek involved wading through knee high yellow grasses, trying to avoid colossal piles of elephant dung. At one point, we realised we had walked right in between the scent trail of a male elephant and two females with a baby. We quickly cut across the savanna in time to see the two females and baby charge into the forest, chirping high tones as a warning not to follow them. At another point in our trek, deeper into the jungle, we found tiger paw prints in the dirt, claw marks scratching 10 feet up a tree, dear bones strewn about, and the rotting smell of flesh having been satisfactorily eaten and left in the sun for scavengers. Needless to say we kept moving!
That evening we boarded an old-school riverboat which took us out to watch the wild animals gather at the watering hole for a cool drink. The sun was setting by this time and Travis had taken well to his persona as National Geographic Wildlife Photographer: comparing lens sizes and shooting strategies with other photographers, competing for the best shots and showing off his talents to the locals. He got some wonderful pics that we will post here as soon as we get out of the mountains to a faster than snot-paced internet connection.
In celebration of our adventure, we ended our day with Ayurvedic massages (1hr.=$10) before gorging on a dinner of mutton curry and vegetable biriyani. It is our unanimous vote that south Indian food is far superior to north Indian food (as evidenced by our appetites). They use fresh coconut and hand picked spices in their dishes here... amazingly delicious. I am collecting recipes for when we get home. Who wants to sample the goodness first??
Wednesday, March 21, 2007
Wednesday, March 14, 2007
DAY AT THE TAJ MAHAL
We awoke at 4:30am in anticipation of our face to face with the Taj Mahal. A cup of chai and a taxi later we'd arrived at the train station. It was on this train that, unfortunately for Katie, a case of Delhi Belly had caused all gastrointestinal hell to break loose. Last week's yoga and meditation practice at the ashram helped Katie to remain PRAYERFULLY equanamous on that long train ride. Thank-Shiva, time eventually healed all and Katie soon felt better.
And now for the more enchanting parts of our story...
We strolled through Akbar's Tomb, the Red Fort, and several other ruins-turned-tourist-traps. Of all these, nothing beats the sight of theTaj Mahal at sunset. This monument dedicated to Love inspires the magic of Eros at first glance. Picture this: flocks of wild parrots and white herons twitterpated in the trees. Camels and elephants lounging and then gliding across the sand. At one side of the Taj, a river trickles past, capturing a mirror image of the building's curves in it's ripples. On the other side of this river, a vast agricultural expanse of differently shaded greens, where square plots nurse baby sugar cane; and wheat sways in the breeze. The photographs in the travel magazines do the Taj no justice. The magic of an ancient era somehow still resides in the air here.
A Muslim myth suggests that if you yell the name of your beloved inside the inner dome of the Taj, the masterfully designed acoustics will carry your prayer up to the Heavens and that person will be yours forever. Under the spell of this romantic ambiance, we shouted to each other and the sound echoed a full thirteen seconds. If you ever get the chance to see the Taj Mahal, go.
Our day of romance soon came to a close and we were back on the train. We arrived to the impoverished and smoggy New Delhi, our outpost for the previous 5 days, with a new taste for India's history and ancient architecture. Travis calls Delhi "the jock itch crotch of the world: good things come from it but it still stinks". Although I find this a crude metaphor with hideous imagery, it doesn't land so far from the truth.
Tomorrow we fly to the tropical south, a region of India known for its lush rainforests, tea plantations and world renowned spices!
Stay tuned...
And now for the more enchanting parts of our story...
We strolled through Akbar's Tomb, the Red Fort, and several other ruins-turned-tourist-traps. Of all these, nothing beats the sight of theTaj Mahal at sunset. This monument dedicated to Love inspires the magic of Eros at first glance. Picture this: flocks of wild parrots and white herons twitterpated in the trees. Camels and elephants lounging and then gliding across the sand. At one side of the Taj, a river trickles past, capturing a mirror image of the building's curves in it's ripples. On the other side of this river, a vast agricultural expanse of differently shaded greens, where square plots nurse baby sugar cane; and wheat sways in the breeze. The photographs in the travel magazines do the Taj no justice. The magic of an ancient era somehow still resides in the air here.
A Muslim myth suggests that if you yell the name of your beloved inside the inner dome of the Taj, the masterfully designed acoustics will carry your prayer up to the Heavens and that person will be yours forever. Under the spell of this romantic ambiance, we shouted to each other and the sound echoed a full thirteen seconds. If you ever get the chance to see the Taj Mahal, go.
Our day of romance soon came to a close and we were back on the train. We arrived to the impoverished and smoggy New Delhi, our outpost for the previous 5 days, with a new taste for India's history and ancient architecture. Travis calls Delhi "the jock itch crotch of the world: good things come from it but it still stinks". Although I find this a crude metaphor with hideous imagery, it doesn't land so far from the truth.
Tomorrow we fly to the tropical south, a region of India known for its lush rainforests, tea plantations and world renowned spices!
Stay tuned...
Tuesday, March 13, 2007
Monday, March 5, 2007
DELHI TO RISHIKESH
We emerged from Delhi airport at 11:30pm and stayed in a dark hole in the back alley of what must've been a piss and fish market, judging by the smell. The hole's name was Hotel Namaskar.
Right away Travis got a water balloon to the head, thrown by a sniper child lurking from his window sill several floors above the street. It was then that we learned about HOli: the Indian holiday of colors and water that was being celebrated on the day of our arrival. We were both eventually baptised with colored powder and water by playful locals dancing in the street. It was good fun... pictures to come shortly!
Next morning we hopped a 6am train to Rishikesh. Although we hadn't yet seen Delhi during daylight, the sun rose as we choo-chood away from the city revealing many men, women and children defecating beside the train tracks. TP? Not a chance. Most find it sufficient to use their left hand for wiping. Other wonders included rotting cow carcasses and a human arm, mysteriously floating down river all by itself. We celebrated our clean getaway over a breakfest smorgasborg of mango juice and KurryKurry (Indian version of hot cheetos).
And finally we've settled here in Rishikesh: the birth city of yoga and the mystical place where the Beatles spent time in 1968, writing their famous White Album and Abbey Road. We are staying at Parmarth Niketan Ashram for a week, participating in the International Yoga Festival. We both love it here and agree that our favorite class is Kundalini Yoga, which is taught outside under a tent by a white woman from Hollywood who wears a turban. Go Figure.
This magical place really is a sensory rollercoaster... to the point where it becomes difficult to discern the divine from the filth. It all seems to run together in an undefined blur. We are taking good care of each other and our health is good.
Right away Travis got a water balloon to the head, thrown by a sniper child lurking from his window sill several floors above the street. It was then that we learned about HOli: the Indian holiday of colors and water that was being celebrated on the day of our arrival. We were both eventually baptised with colored powder and water by playful locals dancing in the street. It was good fun... pictures to come shortly!
Next morning we hopped a 6am train to Rishikesh. Although we hadn't yet seen Delhi during daylight, the sun rose as we choo-chood away from the city revealing many men, women and children defecating beside the train tracks. TP? Not a chance. Most find it sufficient to use their left hand for wiping. Other wonders included rotting cow carcasses and a human arm, mysteriously floating down river all by itself. We celebrated our clean getaway over a breakfest smorgasborg of mango juice and KurryKurry (Indian version of hot cheetos).
And finally we've settled here in Rishikesh: the birth city of yoga and the mystical place where the Beatles spent time in 1968, writing their famous White Album and Abbey Road. We are staying at Parmarth Niketan Ashram for a week, participating in the International Yoga Festival. We both love it here and agree that our favorite class is Kundalini Yoga, which is taught outside under a tent by a white woman from Hollywood who wears a turban. Go Figure.
This magical place really is a sensory rollercoaster... to the point where it becomes difficult to discern the divine from the filth. It all seems to run together in an undefined blur. We are taking good care of each other and our health is good.
Sunday, March 4, 2007
Friday, March 2, 2007
HELLO FROM SINGAPORE!
We slept for 12 hours straight, the trans-oceanic flight went very fast.
We had breakfast this morning in the HongKong airport on layover. This airport is the largest physical building on Planet Earth... and guess how they built it: by leveling a mountain and bulldozing the remains into the ocean to form a man made island. Too bad people say this man made island is now slowly sinking! Pretty soon the airport will be the largest building sitting on the bottom of the ocean!
We've had a great day touring with T's buddy Ronald in Singapore. We're now getting ready to board for our flight to Delhi. We joke about flying from the "cleanest city in the world" to the "dirtiest city in the world" in one day...
We had breakfast this morning in the HongKong airport on layover. This airport is the largest physical building on Planet Earth... and guess how they built it: by leveling a mountain and bulldozing the remains into the ocean to form a man made island. Too bad people say this man made island is now slowly sinking! Pretty soon the airport will be the largest building sitting on the bottom of the ocean!
We've had a great day touring with T's buddy Ronald in Singapore. We're now getting ready to board for our flight to Delhi. We joke about flying from the "cleanest city in the world" to the "dirtiest city in the world" in one day...
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